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Ultimate Excavation LLC
Excavator and skid steer grading a lot beside a new home

Earth works company · Based in Caldwell, Idaho

Land grading

Land grading for pastures, arenas, long drives and acreage around Boise and the Treasure Valley.

Highly rated
5.0
Owned & operated
Local
BBB rating
A+
Cities Served
10

On acreage, small grading mistakes get spread across a lot of ground. We grade pastures, arenas, long gravel drives and wet low spots so storm water and irrigation water go where they should.

Land Grading for Acreage Around Boise and Canyon County

Grading a backyard and grading five acres are different jobs. On a big piece of ground, a few inches of fall over a long distance decides whether water reaches the end of the field or sits in the middle of it. A low corner that would be a puddle in a yard can be a quarter acre of mud in a pasture.

Most of our land grading is on acreage around Kuna, Star, Middleton, Parma, Homedale and the rest of Canyon County near our home base in Caldwell, plus the rural edges of Boise and Nampa.

What We Look At When We Walk the Land

Before we bid acreage, we walk it, ideally with you. We look at where water comes onto the property and where it leaves, where the head ditch and tail water sit, and which spots stay wet after irrigation. We note the soil, since clay, caliche and sandy ground grade differently. We also check how trucks get in, fences and gates in the way, power poles, and the wellhead. Water should drain away from a well, never toward it.

Pastures and Irrigated Ground

A lot of older Treasure Valley acreage still takes water from an open ditch and floods it across the field. For that to work, the field needs a fairly even, gentle fall from the head ditch to the far end. High spots dry out and go to weeds. Low spots stay wet, grow cattails and turn hooves soft.

Grading a pasture usually means knocking down the high ground, filling the swales, and setting a consistent slope so water spreads evenly. The tail end needs somewhere to go, like a drain ditch or a low corner set aside for it, so runoff doesn't end up in a neighbor's yard. If the ground is rough with old fence lines, brush or Russian olive, land clearing comes first.

Horse Arenas

An arena is a big pad with a job to do. The base has to be firm and compacted, with a slight pitch so rain doesn't pond, usually around 1 to 2 percent toward one side or the edges. The footing material goes on top of that base. If the base is soft or uneven, the footing ends up deep in some spots and thin in others, which is hard on horses. On clay, getting the base dry enough to compact is often what sets the timeline. Location matters too. An arena on a slight rise is easier to keep dry than one at the bottom of a field, and it takes less fill to get it above the ground around it.

Long Gravel Drives

A 600-foot drive back to a house or shop has to shed water along its whole length. We grade it with a crown or a cross slope, cut shallow ditches or swales along the sides, and build up a compacted gravel base. Where a drive crosses an irrigation ditch, it usually needs a culvert, and the ditch owner may want a say in its size and location. Our driveway excavation page covers the subgrade side. A long drive also has to work for more than the family car. A fire truck or propane delivery needs room to get in and turn around, and your fire district may have rules on width and turnarounds for longer drives.

Low Spots on Kuna and Canyon County Properties

Standing water is the most common complaint we hear from acreage owners. Some of it comes from rain and snowmelt. A lot of it comes from irrigation, either your own runoff or a neighbor's. Clay in parts of Canyon County holds water at the surface, and the caliche under much of Kuna keeps it from soaking down.

The fix depends on how much water there is and where it's allowed to go. Regrading the low spot is the first option. When grading alone can't move enough water, a swale, a new ditch or drainage excavation can carry it off.

Ditches and Irrigation Easements

Many canals and laterals in the valley belong to irrigation districts or ditch companies, not the landowner, and they come with easements for access and maintenance. Work in or near those ditches usually needs their OK first. That includes filling a ditch, moving it, piping it, adding a crossing, or grading in a way that sends runoff into it. Users downstream may depend on that water.

We ask about ditches when we look at the property and plan the grading around them. Irrigation season runs roughly April to October, so work close to a ditch is often easier once it's dry.

What Changes the Time and Cost on Acreage

Acreage grading is priced on how much dirt moves and how far it travels, more than on the number of acres. A field that's only a few inches off can go quickly. One with deep swales or a big high spot means hauling a lot of material across the property. Clearing, ditch work that needs approval first, and wet clay after rain or irrigation all add time.

Why Acreage Owners Call Us

We're based in Caldwell, close to a lot of the ground we grade. Customers have called us knowledgeable, respectful of their property and great for earthwork. Tanner will walk the land with you and explain where the water goes now and where it should go. Call (208) 697-2429 or request a free estimate.

What Our Customers Say

Rated 5.0 out of 5 from 25 Google reviews.

6 five-star reviews

  • We've worked with these guys on several pool forming and excavation projects. They're on time, work hard, and do great work. Would recommend to other builders!

    Cassi G.

  • Our main water line burst and I had no idea who to call to fix this problem. Thankfully Tanner at Ultimate Excavation came to save the day!! He gave me three different quote options and explained everything in detail. Very knowledgeable and professional. They were able to start the project immediately! 10/10 recommend.

    Sajra I.

  • Tanner and his crew do a fantastic job digging pools for us. Always flexible with schedule, professional, and great communication. He also dug and installed a septic system for me and did a great job and at a great price! Our entire team highly recommends using ultimate excavation, you won’t be disappointed!

    Stanley M.

  • Tanner and his crew put in a stone block retaining wall and drainage around our home. They were timely, professional, and paid attention to all the small details. We are very happy with the work and will use them again!

    Steve G.

  • Tanner and his whole crew was so great to deal with! Tanner has great communication, got us a bid quickly and was able to get to our job well before the rains came which we really appreciated!

    Kendra Z.

  • Such a great company to work with. The owners are solid people, the quality of work is top-notch, and they genuinely care about their customers and the end result. They get the job done right.

    Sara V.

Frequently Asked Questions

When is the best time to grade a pasture?

Fall, after the irrigation water shuts off and before the ground freezes, is a common window. Early spring before the water comes on can work too. Clay is hard to grade right after rain, so a dry stretch helps.

Can I fill in or move an irrigation ditch on my property?

Often not without permission. Many ditches belong to an irrigation district or ditch company and have an easement, and neighbors downstream may rely on the water. Talk to the ditch owner before any work is planned.

How much slope does a horse arena need?

Most arenas are built with a gentle slope of around 1 to 2 percent so rain drains off without washing the footing downhill. Your footing supplier may have a preferred number, and we can grade to it.

Do I need a permit to grade my acreage?

It depends on the project. Grading tied to construction that disturbs an acre or more generally needs construction stormwater permit coverage, and the county may require a grading permit for large cut and fill or drainage changes. Check with the county early.

Will grading tear up my pasture grass?

Any ground we cut or fill loses its grass for a while, so plan on reseeding those areas. On deeper cuts, topsoil can be stripped, saved and spread back so the new seed has something to grow in. Grading in fall and seeding soon after often gives grass a good start the next spring.

What should I have ready when you come look at my acreage?

Know roughly where your property lines and ditch easements are, and who owns any ditches. Tell us where water sits now, when it shows up, and what you want to use the ground for. A plat map or aerial photo helps if you have one.

Get in touch with Ultimate Excavation LLC